Generally speaking, I’m not a fan of a burger that I perceive fussy or fancy. That is to say that any burger going beyond properly cooked beef, cheese, lettuce, tomato, onions, mustard or mayo on a decent bun is likely gonna be lost on me before the words on the menu make it past my eyeballs and into the old frontal lobe. (Notice I deleted ketchup? That’s on purpose. I hate ketchup.) So on a trip to Edi and the Wolf yesterday for brunch, it surprised me that there was an audible ding ding ding ding ding in my head when I saw their burger being delivered to another guest on a thin slab of black slate with roasted potatoes and pickled cucumbers. It looked a little swanky…but something told me I had to go for it.And, oh my, was I delighted I did. First of all, this thing is just frickin’ gorgeous. But looks, as we all know, aren’t everything. However, the minute you chomp down on this baby, your taste buds are doing backflips over the perfect sextuple of flavors working together to leave you smiling in contented bliss. Let’s start with the meat. Pat La Frieda, grass-fed Black Angus hanger cooked perfectly medium with just the right amount of salt. Off to a good start! The cheese is Gruyère melted dreamily over the previously mentioned mouth-wateringly-mighty meat. On top of this is a manageable pinch of pickled and caramelized onions with a nice little mound of baby arugula dressed with Edi’s chipotle-mayo based special sauce which adds just the right amount of zing to this already-over-achieving take on an American classic. Cram all of this in between the delicious brioche bun and you have, my very good friends, my favorite burger in New York City. Yeah, I just said that. And it took a lot. I seriously can’t think of one that beats it. Shake Shack? Love. But, no. BareBurger? Not. Corner Bistro? Not even close. Minetta? Great, but uh-huh. The Wolf Burger at Edi and the Wolf takes it, folks. It surprised the hell out of me too, because burgers are not what proprietor and Iron Chef champ Eduard Frauneder and co-chef/owner Wolfgang Ban are known for, but these guys have entered the ring here with some of New York’s best and are going toe to toe in one helluva bout. I highly recommend you put a weekend brunch trip to Edi and the Wolf on the calendar now, because you can only get the Wolf Burger on Saturday or Sunday from 11:30 to 3:30 at this Avenue C insta-classic establishment.