The Great Breakfast Sandwich Smackdown is underway and already the competition is getting fierce. According to our incredibly willing and highly reliable taste tester (me) a very serious contender for the title can be found at the East Village outpost of Back Forty. The Housemade English Muffin Sandwich is the brainchild of chef/locavore Peter Hoffman who was an early pioneer of the farm-to-table concept at the (sadly) now shuttered Savoy.
This incarnation of the brunch staple consists of what I consider to be the four basic food groups: bread, eggs, cheese and, of course, bacon. Oh, and with a little bit of honey butter to round things out. The sandwich is served open faced, and, at first glance, you might wince at the sight of two (only two??) small pieces of bacon. But fear not my porcine, I mean, pork loving, friends. You will not be disappointed. Upon assembly (i.e. delicately smashing the two halves of English muffin together) the perfectly prepared, over easy egg erupts into a yolky volcanic dream. The texture of the housemade muffin, with its crisp cornmeal crusted outside and soft, spongy inside, is the perfect complement to the crisp strips of bacon and it does a fantastic cleanup job on the egg that runneth over.I’ve been to Back Forty twice in the last month for one of these bad boys. You know, just for the sake of the accuracy of this review. I may not be ready to declare it the ultimate winner just yet, but I will say it’s neck in neck with the current frontrunner. Four out of five eggs.